Discovering French Country Dining at L’Orée du Bois in Châteauneuf, France
We stumbled upon L’Orée du Bois, a cozy and inviting restaurant nestled in the 12th-century hilltop village of Châteauneuf, France. It was almost by accident. For years, we’ve driven past the village on our route from Paris to Provence. Each time, we’d glance up at the silhouette of the medieval castle perched high on the hill and say to ourselves, “Next time, we’ll stop.”
Châteauneuf is just a short drive from Beaune, a favorite stop of ours on the journey south. So, one late afternoon, curiosity finally got the best of us, and we took a detour to see what awaited at the top of the hill.
Leaving the main road behind, we meandered along winding country lanes. The route took us over a charming stone bridge and into the heart of the village. It felt like stepping into a postcard.
As evening settled in, we parked the car and began wandering through the quiet cobbled streets. That’s when we spotted L’Orée du Bois. Drawn in by its warm, rustic exterior, we stepped inside to inquire about dinner. The gracious owner greeted us with a smile and asked if we had a reservation. We didn’t have one. But to our delight, she told us we were in luck. There was one table left for the evening—available in about 45 minutes.
We eagerly said yes.
With time to spare before our unexpected dinner, we set off to explore the village and its fairytale castle.
Exploring Châteauneuf and its medieval castle
Châteauneuf may be small, but it’s packed with history and charm. It’s officially classified as one of Les Plus Beaux Villages de France. It’s a designation reserved for the most beautiful villages in the country. And it’s easy to see why. It has narrow cobbled streets, ivy-covered stone houses, and sweeping views of the Burgundy countryside. Châteauneuf feels like it’s been frozen in time.
At the heart of the village is the Château de Châteauneuf, a striking 12th-century fortress that once served as a stronghold during the Hundred Years’ War. It was later transformed into a stately Gothic residence, complete with towers, turrets, and a dry moat. Today, visitors can explore the castle’s courtyards, restored rooms, and ramparts, which offer panoramic views of the surrounding vineyards and rolling hills.
A few fun facts:
- The castle was originally built by Jean de Chaudenay, a Burgundian lord, in the 1100s.
- During the 15th century, it was gifted by Philip the Good (Duke of Burgundy) to his trusted advisor, Philippe Pot, who left his mark with coats of arms and decorative flourishes that are still visible today.
- Châteauneuf was never destroyed or significantly altered, which is rare—it retains much of its medieval layout and charm.
- The village has just over 100 residents and no modern developments, so it truly feels like a step back in time.
As we wandered through the sleepy village and explored the castle grounds, the golden hour light bathed everything in a warm glow. It was the perfect prelude to what would become one of our most memorable meals in France.
L’Orée du Bois restaurant
Our dinner at L’Orée du Bois turned out to be one of those unexpected gems—especially since we hadn’t planned to eat there and weren’t even looking for a restaurant.
We started with a couple of beers and a beautiful charcuterie and cheese board, which, as we later learned, is one of their specialties. Every bite featured delicious regional flavors, perfectly paired with the relaxed countryside vibe. We also shared an order of escargot, a savory crêpe, the house special salad, and, of course, a generous plate of frites—because it wouldn’t be a proper French dinner without them.
The food was outstanding—simple, flavorful, and full of local character. And when the bill came, we were genuinely surprised: just around 70 euros for everything. Incredible value for such a memorable, spontaneous meal.
If you’re thinking about trying L’Orée du Bois, just be aware that they are open Thursday through Monday from 12:00 to 9:00 pm and closed on Tuesdays and Wednesdays. They are also closed for January and February.
